Days 89-93| Km 2390 - 2573 | cycling Lake Takapo - Lake Ohau & Dawn over Lake Hawea

Dawn over Lake Tekapo

From Lake Tekapo it’s a very long flat gravel road walk along a canal to Lake Ohau. So flat and straight in fact a world speed record was made in 1996 for hydroplaning, reaching 286.5km/hr. Seeing as my shoes were shot to pieces, (as everyone’s are after 4 weeks tackling the Richmond’s alpine terrain and the river rocks there after) I decided to save my footsies and hop on a bike with Jules to cycle the 90km. Maxing out at a top speed of around 20km/hr -no land speed records there. However, I feel Jules and I should take the crown for how much ice cream can be consumed in one day… one 2 litre tub, 2 spoons and two girls in need of sugar…

Mt Cook in the distance…still mesmerised.

The last 5km around Lake Ohau was so tough due to a head wind. I burnt through the last of my sugar reserves and due to the full on post ice-cream sugar crash, it culminated in me being soooo angry at the wind! My head was down longing for that 5km to be over. In fact, if Jules had spoken to me at that point I think I would have have full on erupted into a serious meltdown! I have since learnt that Ohau means strong wind, maybe knowing that at the time may have made me feel just slightly better about the situation!

The wind stayed with us the following day, attacking us from all angles as we rose over Ahuriri saddle. All day our focus was getting over the last big river crossing before Wanaka - the Ahuriri River. As we approached it the rain clouds over the West Coast ranges didn’t look promising, yet we had a plan. The low down from a few NOBO’s (North-bounders) we had spoken to recommended crossing downstream of the rock island, walking up the rocks then crossing upstream. It worked a treat. Although fast flowing (and typical, the rain hit us mid crossing) we took our time, could see our feet and the water didn’t pass our knees. Unlike some who chose the slower moving section, who weren’t able to see the bottom and had water up to their belly buttons!

We emerged unscathed and relieved that the much anticipated crossing was done and we could set our sights on finding a camp spot for the night… with a rather inquisitive bunch of cows. I just hoped they could see all shades of green and wouldn’t stand on my tent in the middle of the night. I obviously lived to tell the tale - that could have been Darwin Award material, survived the river crossing yet was suffocated by a cows udder in her sleep haha!

We woke to the pitter-patter of rain on our tents . I waited for a break in the rain to pack up camp and headed off telling Jules today would be filled with rainbows and unicorns. Well what do you know, I got my rainbow and 2 hares bounding across the track underneath it so I’ll take those as my unicorns. ;)

The day progressively deteriorated from there. Passing Martha’s Saddle at 1680m it felt more like I was walking through Welsh slate mining country with the heavy clouds sitting low on the mountain tops.

Our plan for the day was to reach Stody’s Hut, again fighting rivers together knowing they would have risen from all the nights rain. Reaching Top Timaru Hut around 2:30pm we were forced to rethink our game plan. The contributory rivers off the mountain tops were gushing cloudy ash coloured water full of silt and filling the Timaru river to concerning levels. Knowing we had to cross it 12 times before an extremely steep climb up to Stody’s it really didn’t seem realistic or safe to even attempt continuing. Day over. Who am I kidding though? Blasted by wind and rain so strong it was shaking the hut I was very happy to call it a day!

Slow going and slippy the next day but eventually we were greeted with stunning views from Breast Hill looking down onto Lake Hawea. Before saying bye to the gang I was donated their last water supplies so I could hang back and stay on top of Breast Hill for the night to wild camp and admire the setting sun….beautiful.

Crossing the Timaru River

The ‘easy’ part of the climb toward Stody’s Hut.

Heading toward Breast Hill

Nothing like feeling the warmth of the sun rays on your back after a wet and miserable day prior. Makes the reward even more worth it!

Perfect.